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Jack Martin

Colourist based in the West Coast who specialises in platinum tones. His clients include celebrated actors and well-known figures.

What affordable item can't you live without?

I highly recommend a gentle drying cloth, or even a smooth cotton shirt to dry your hair. Most people don’t realise how much stress a standard towel can do, particularly for silver or chemically treated hair. This minor adjustment can really minimize flyaways and damage. A second budget-friendly essential is a large-gap comb, to use in the shower. It protects the hair while smoothing out tangles and helps maintain the integrity of the hair shafts, especially after lightening.

What item or service justifies the extra cost?

A high-quality styling iron – ceramic or tourmaline, with smart temperature control. Grey and blonde hair can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the right iron.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

Self-applied color lifting. Social media makes it look easy, but the truth is it’s one of the most hazardous actions you can do to your hair. I’ve witnessed clients cause irreversible harm, snap their strands or end up with uneven tones that are extremely difficult to fix. I also don’t recommend keratin or permanent straightening treatments on pre-lightened strands. These formulations are often overly harsh for delicate locks and can cause long-term damage or undesired tones.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Clients selecting inappropriate items for their hair type or colour. Some overuse violet-based cleansers until their silver or blond hair looks flat and dull. Others rely too much on high-protein masks and end up with stiff, brittle hair. The other major issue is using hot tools sans safeguard. If you’re using hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – especially on pre-lightened hair – you’re going to see brassiness, lack of moisture and splitting.

What would you suggest for thinning hair?

Hair loss needs a multilayered approach. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. I often suggest scalp formulas with active ingredients to boost blood flow and aid in hair growth. Applying a cleansing scalp wash often helps eliminate impurities and allows treatments to work more effectively. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown positive outcomes. They support the body from the inside out by balancing body chemistry, stress and nutritional deficiencies.

For those seeking higher-level solutions, blood-derived therapies – where a personalized serum is applied – can be successful. However, I consistently recommend consulting a skin or hair specialist initially. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to identify the source rather than seeking quick fixes.

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A Trichology Expert

Trichologist and head of a renowned clinic centers and lines targeting thinning.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

I schedule cuts every ten to twelve weeks, but will snip damaged ends myself bi-weekly to keep my ends healthy, and have color touches every two months.

Which bargain product do you swear by?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have see-through sections. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a variety of shades, making it seamlessly blended. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had significant shedding – and also currently as I’m going through some significant shedding after having a bad infection previously. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the first part of you to suffer when your intake is insufficient, so I would also recommend a balanced, nutritious diet.

Which premium option is truly valuable?

If you have female pattern hair loss (FPHL), I’d say doctor-recommended solutions. Regarding increased shedding, or telogen effluvium, buying an over-the-counter product is fine, but for FPHL you really do need prescription-strength formulas to see the best results. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which hair trend or treatment would you never recommend?

Rosemary extracts for shedding. It doesn’t work. This idea originated from a limited 2015 research that compared the effects of 2% minoxidil to rosemary oil. A 2% strength minoxidil isn’t enough to do much for genetic balding in men, so the study is basically saying they are equally minimal in effect.

Additionally, excessive biotin. Few individuals have biotin insufficiency, so taking it is unlikely to do your hair any good, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What’s the most common mistake you see?

I think the term “hair washing” should be changed to “scalp cleansing” – because the real aim of shampooing your hair is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s harmful to their strands, when in fact the contrary is accurate – especially if you have dandruff, which is worsened by the presence of excess oils. If natural oils stay on the head, they break down and become inflammatory.

Regrettably, follicular health and strand desires can differ, so it’s a delicate equilibrium. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it won’t be damaging to your strands.

What solutions do you suggest for thinning?

For FPHL, your core treatment should be minoxidil. Scientific support is substantial and tends to work best when compounded with other hair-supportive actives. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps platelet-rich plasma or light treatments.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Excessive daily shedding occurs in response to an internal factor. Sometimes, the cause is transient – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will improve spontaneously. Alternatively, endocrine issues or nutrient shortages may be the cause – the typical deficiencies involve iron, B12 and vitamin D – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus